Upon entering Tala, you are transported back to the Sunday umu in Samoa, surrounded by the aroma of charcoal smoke and the sight of the "ulu o le laulau" (Head Table setting) and the "sefe" (Samoan cupboard) displaying the finest dishes usually reserved for honored guests.
Tala, which means "tales" or "stories" in Samoan, embodies the essence of this unique establishment.
Onesemo holds the distinguished title of being the first Samoan to have his business named 'New Restaurant of the Year' at the prestigious Cuisine Good Food Awards 2024.
The Cuisine judging panel has identified Tala as "consistently outstanding," while the category award for 'New Restaurant of the Year' recognises Tala as "showcasing excellence in all levels of hospitality within a unique new concept and space."
"I want to differentiate my restaurant from being 'Pacific' to being 'Samoan'."
"Many people who come in may agree or disagree, especially those who have never tried Samoan food before. Those who are familiar with Samoan food will either like it or not, and I'm okay with that."
Tala in Parnell opened its doors in November 2023, offering a delectable array of dishes inspired by Henry's rich upbringing in Samoa.
Photo: RNZ / Marika Khabazi
Onesemo says he wants to return to Samoa one day and open a restaurant that is tailored specifically to Samoan cuisine.
"In Samoa, there are a lot of fast-food joints and Italian restaurants, and you rarely see a restaurant that caters to Samoan fine dining, apart from Pinati's, where you get a freshly cooked meal for two talas.
"We have so many Samoan chefs with a lot of skill and talent in Italian cooking, but when it comes to cooking palusami, we automatically are mimika (showoffs).
"That style of cooking is westernized."
"We are natural-born cooks, and I think it is very important to own that. Imagine if all the Samoan chefs focused on Samoan cuisine.
"We could literally fill that gap by bridging it with fine dining to fast food joints."
What sets his restaurant apart from the others is that it is authentically Samoan.
A few aspects of his restaurant include the digger-setting table, where guests sit in front of the Chef, watch, and are served by Onesemo and his team of creatives.
"In our culture, a quote I live by and like to portray is 'O le ala o le pule ole taut' (The pathway to leadership is through service); from the time people are seated to being served, you get that tautua service.
"It is like being back home in Samoa, where the Taulelea (a single Samoan male) who usually does the chores sits waiting to serve the elders and eats last.
Also seen is the cupboard shelf, known to Samoans as a "sefe," where the finest crockery is kept for visiting guests.
"O le ala o le pule o le tautua" - I don't have that higher education to give me confidence, but I rely heavily on my Samoan upbringing and values to be resilient.
"But in the back of your head, there's going to be an end to this, and the end will always be the drive and motivation that motivates me."
Henry trained as a chef in Samoa, then gained experience in Hawaii and Florida. Following a visit to New Zealand, he reached out to chef Michael Meredith for a kitchen opportunity.
In 2014, Michael took him on, and Henry grew his career in Auckland under his mentorship.
"I wrote a letter to Meredith, and when he finally replied, we packed up and left Samoa for New Zealand.
"In 2014, when we moved, I washed dishes and did whatever needed to be done for 3 months, no pay and didn't get tips; the knowledge I got from there was completely priceless.
"That was payment enough for me, that was good enough; eventually, I got hired, but those three months, I was on such a high from absorbing all the information I was getting," Onesemo said.
Onesemo was born in Pago Pago (American Samoa), raised in Samoa, and moved to Aotearoa with his wife to build what they have now - Tala Restaurant.
Thinking about his award, he says it is nice to see a Samoan restaurant win the award.
"You're doing the right thing. I've learned from mistakes, and I could never learn from success. Failure is where my most important lessons have come from.
"Keep doing what you are doing because that is what will get you to where you'll be."
