How to craft artwork on a canvas only two centimetres long

3:48 pm on 11 August 2024
A composite image showing Tanya Barlow on the left and a selection of her nail art on the right. Tanya poses with her hands up around her to show off her nails. She wears a black dress and a heart necklace.

Tanya Barlow is a multidisciplinary artist based in Auckland, known for her intricate nail art designs. Photo: Tanya Barlow

For Auckland nail artist Tanya Barlow, other people's fingernails are a canvas where her imagination runs wild.

While clients sometimes want a specific design on their nails, Barlow says often the "inspo" they bring is just a vibe or cultural reference which kicks off a creative collaboration.

Yellow-orange sunset nails inspired by "Leo season vibes", red-black-and-gold nails a la In The Mood For Love and bright green nails painted with hyperrealistic brown slugs are some of her recent creations.

The slug manicure - which Barlow saw an overseas nail artist create - was a recent "artist's choice" for an open-minded regular.

"I was like 'You know what's gonna be make this really gross and cool? Slime trails. And she was all about it," she tells Emile Donovan.

A slug manicure by Auckland nail artist Tanya Barlow

Photo: Tanya Barlow / @hellotanya

Manicures don't have to be "pretty and cute", Barlow says, although when she posted her slug nails on Instagram she did get a bit of flak.

"People were like 'Oh my god, they're so gross'. And it's like 'Hey, people, they're amazing."

Set on a bright green background, the slugs were sculpted in 3D gel which Barlow then painted yellowy-brown before layering dark brown over for a "sluggy texture".

"I love looking at a complex design and reverse-engineering it. I'm like 'Okay, how did they do that? And can I do that too?"

While Barlow's clients sometimes want a specific design painted on their nails, often they'll just present her with a word, vibe or cultural reference as "inspo".

"Last week I had a client, her inspo was the film - one of my favourites - In the Mood For Love. How do you translate a Wong Kar-wai film onto nails? We brainstormed. We were looking at screenshots. And I was like 'Okay, we have to go very abstract'.

"We went for a deep red base. We airbrushed some black, kind of moody bits to symbolize the nighttime stuff. And then we did a brush stroke of gold chrome, if you will, to symbolise the lighting in it.

"I was just like, this is the I love my job so much. I feel so lucky."

While some nail artists demand their 'inspo' photos 48 hours before an appointment, Barlow likes to be surprised on the day.

"I enjoy that it is slightly masochistic. I do enjoy the surprise of a client being like 'I want this crazy thing'.

"So much of it is interpretation and I love that so much, which is why I think I'm so passionate about the dang slugs."

Although elaborate nail art can be time-consuming to receive - two hours plus including the removal of old polish - it doesn't get in the way of living your life, Barlow says.

"If gymnasts can do the bloody Olympics [with artificial nails], you can do anything. You just have to adjust or relearn. Honestly, if I cut my nails off I'd have to relearn how to type. I use my knuckles a lot for things … There's nothing I can't do."

Nails painted with a pounamu design by Auckland nail artist Tanya Barlow

Nails painted with a pounamu design by Auckland nail artist Tanya Barlow Photo: Tanya Barlow / @hellotanya

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