After 14 years, and $3 billion dollars in support from Australia, New Zealand and other pacific partners, what chance has Solomon Island got of lasting peace?
The sun sets over Lawson Tama Stadium in Honiara where thousands gathered to farewell the Regional Assistance Mission to Solomon Islands. Photo: RNZI/ Koroi Hawkins
The true success of the Pacific region's first ever peacekeeping intervention is now being tested in the island nation as it tries to chart a course for its future, while trying to forget the ghosts of the past.
The Regional Assistance Mission to Solomon Islands (RAMSI) led by Australia and New Zealand departed the country at the end of June, having spent 14 years helping to restore law and order and build up government institutions.
But has Solomon Islands made the most of RAMSI's time in the country and more importantly can it make the most of the second chance made possible through the "blood, sweat and tears" of the men and women of 15 Pacific Island nations who came to help a friend in need?
Ethnic Tensions
Harold Keke (centre, praying) and his GLF guerillas pray on a beach before patrolling, along the Weathercoast, Guadalcanal, Solomon Islands, 2003 Photo: Ben Bohane/Wakaphotos.com
More than 200 people lost their lives during the conflict in Solomon Islands. Most were civilians. Many are still missing.
This period from 1998 to 2003 is locally referred to as the 'Ethnic Tensions' or simply 'The Tensions'.
Opinions vary on the cause of the conflict and the list of contributing factors is long and complex.
But in its simplest form the Ethnic Tension involved four broad groups, the Guadalcanal Revolutionary Army self-described freedom fighters trying to rid their lands of illegal settlers. The Malaita Eagle Force who fancied themselves defenders of the settlers, repelling the GRA and protecting people in the capital Honiara. Parliamentarians who probably thought of themselves as victims. And ordinary civilians, who are considered to be the real victims.
Malaita Eagle Force MEF rebels stand guard at their post in Honiara 12 June 2000. Credit Arthur WateSolomon StarAFP Photo: Arthur Wate/Solomon Star/AFP
The conflict had its roots in perceived inequalities, illegal land occupation and disillusionment with government's ability to address the situation. It was initiated by the Guadalcanal Revolutionary Army who began a violent eviction of settlers from traditional and disputed land bordering the capital Honiara which is located on the island of Guadalcanal. Most of the settlers were from the neighbouring province of Malaita. They regrouped in the capital Honiara and formed vigilante groups to repel the GRA's attacks giving rise to the Malaita Eagle Force.
Firsthand accounts recorded on condition of anonymity by a Truth and Reconciliation Commission, that was set up to look into the causes of the tensions, are harrowing. Like this one from a man who had returned to his village after a militant raid the night before.
"There I saw a man who was shot and had a knife stab wound on his body. I helped carry his body to a helicopter but unfortunately he died at the spot. Another man was lying down in the flower hedges; the militants had removed the skin of his face. His two children were given a piece of biscuit each and stood over their father's body. He was rushed to the hospital but unfortunately he died later."
And this woman described life under a warlord's rule.
"There were several of them who were raped at gun point including my own daughter. We were under his rule and
we did not have freedom of movement during that time."
Malaitan children celebrate after reaching the relative safety of a refugee camp in Honiara, Solomon Islands 22 June 1999 after the Guadalcanal Revolutionary Army (GRA) swept through the east coast plantations. Photo: AFP/Torsten Blackwood
It was an especially dark time for women and children as another woman explained.
"Mothers gave birth in the middle of the bush. Some in pouring rain, some in heat, but all in fear."
Photo taken on the 20th of July 2003. A militiaman loyal to renegade warlord Harold Keke guards the church where hostages Father Peter Kesimo, Father Alfred Tabo and Father Benjamin Kunu are being held in the Guadalcanal Liberation Front stronghold of Mbiki on the remote Weather Coast, where Keke proclaimed, "We will stand on this land and fight in front of Almighty God." Australia will lead a 2,000-strong military and police force due to land in Honiara on Thursday in a bid to restore law and order to the deeply troubled South Pacific island state. Photo: AFP PHOTO/Ben BOHANE
The government struggling to regain control of the situation brokered a peace treaty disbanding both militia groups.
But most of the now "ex-militants" hung on to their weapons and Solomon Islands continued it's downward spiral into complete lawlessness and chaotic violence ruled by men with guns.
In 2003, having at first strongly opposed the idea, Australia finally agreed to lead an intervention to Solomon Islands with support from New Zealand and personnel from 13 Pacific Islands Forum countries.
02 AUG 2003. Approximately 15,000 people attended the Operation Helpem Fren Open Day held in Honiara. This was the first opportunity for members on the operation to meet the Solomon Islanders enmasse. Photo: Gary Ramage/Commonwealth of Australia
For Solomon Islanders weary of five years of living hell, the arrival of the Regional Assistance Mission or RAMSI was the answer to their prayers.
"It has become the symbol of peace hope and order. To all Christians in Solomon Islands RAMSI is a divine intervention," was how the Solomon Islands' prime minister Manasseh Sogavare described it.
Over the course of the next decade RAMSI helped rebuild national institutions, strengthen government processes and restart Solomon Islands' economy.
The bustling Port of Honiara nestled in the capital's CBD. 05 November 2013 Photo: RAMSI gallery/Solomon Islands Govt
In 2013 after its tenth anniversary, all of RAMSI's state-building activities were transferred to longer term bilateral arrangements and it became solely a policing mission.
By 2016 this had further reduced to an advisory support role to the Royal Solomon Islands Police force.
The mission, which cost Australia $NZ3 billion ended this year in June.
Around 2000 New Zealand men and women took part in RAMSI and government contributed $150 million to its $3 billion dollar bill 95 percent of which was footed by Australia. Photo: RAMSI gallery/Solomon Islands Govt
Around 2000 New Zealand men and women took part in RAMSI and the government contributed $NZ150 million to its overall cost.
Deputy Prime Minister, Paula Bennett said it had been an important investment.
"I think we should be really proud of that. The fact that we put so many personnel here and through the aid program as well are investing in things that make a practical difference to the people of the Solomons. So I am really confident...I think that the money has been well spent," said Paula Bennett.
Solomon Islands a new chapter
The last contigent of RAMSI PPF officers say farewell thousands of Solomon Islanders who gathered to witness the mission's departure. 27 June 2017. Photo: RNZI/ Koroi Hawkins
On the eve of RAMSI's departure Australia announced $NZ150 million in support for Solomon Islands over the next four years, $NZ80 million of which will fund more than 40 Australian Federal Police officers who are staying on to continue supporting local police in advisory roles.
New Zealand has committed $NZ12.5 million which will fund at least four police advisors from New Zealand to be based in the capital Honiara.
On top of this both Australia and New Zealand will provide ongoing bilateral aid support to Solomon Islands.
27 June 2017.Thousands of Solomon Islanders gathered to farewell RAMSI at Lawson Tama Stadium in Honiara. The same venue where a similar crowd had first welcomed the mission 14 years ago. Photo: RNZI/ Koroi Hawkins
Australia's governor general Sir Peter Cosgrove, speaking on behalf of Pacific Islands Forum leaders at the RAMSI farewell celebrations at the Lawson Tama stadium in Honiara, reassured Solomon Islanders of this support.
"We the people of the participating nations stand proud of what has been achieved with the courage and the energy and the tolerance and the wisdom of Solomon Islanders. We look forward to seeing the course you chart into the future...From Australia and New Zealand to the smaller states. From north, south, east and west we are with you," He said
But despite all of this support there were still mixed feelings among Solomon Islanders I spoke to about RAMSI's departure.
John Bishop hails from the Western Solomons. He said he was sad to see RAMSI leave. Photo: RNZI/ Koroi Hawkins
One man I talked to in Chinatown said his name was John Bishop, he was visiting from the Western Province he said the work RAMSI did will be missed.
"It makes me really sad because RAMSI has been doing a lot of work here in the Solomons. And has established a lot of things. Peace and order and people [were] starting to gain confidence when RAMSI was here," Mr Bishop said.
Anthonia Deve and her daughter Janice. Mrs Deve says its the uncertainty more than anything that troubles her about RAMSI's departure. Photo: RNZI/ Koroi Hawkins
Another person I talked to was Anthonia Deve who had lived through the tensions and was still uncertain about the future.
"Sometimes we will be thinking it will be okay, but we are not really sure. We are not really sure what will come after they are leaving the Solomon Islands as we are the women of Solomon Islands. Because already in the past during this ethnic tension it really hurt us and put is in some kind of position that we [were] lost, we [were] nothing. Dying people and all this," She said.
Ellen Stennet felt very patriotic about RAMSI leaving she said she was proud Solomon Islands could finally stand on its own two feet. Photo: RNZI/ Koroi Hawkins
There were people who were glad RAMSI was leaving like this one woman, Ellen Stennet, who seemed really patriotic and said she was proud that Solomon Islands was able to stand on its own.
"If you regard this country you name it is a Christian country, you stand by yourself like you are independent. And make Solomon Islands a better place. Rather than always relying on other countries. We have our government, we are independent, we educate ourselves. Let us make our country to a better living if you think you are proud of Solomon Islands," Ellen Stennet said.
Others I spoke to were apathetic one gentleman at the central market politely explained to me that he was more concerned about selling his produce than talking about the mission leaving.
But while their views on RAMSI leaving varied greatly most Solomon Islanders I spoke to said they were grateful for what the mission had done for their country.
Missed Opportunities
The Regional Assistance Mission to Solomon Islands was farewelled by thousands of Solomon Islanders some with placards reading "Tagio Tumas RAMSI" which translates to "Thank you so much RAMSI" in Solomon Islands Pidgin. Photo: RNZI/ Koroi Hawkins
RAMSI was never meant to solve all of Solomon Islands problems.
Considerable gains have been made under RAMSI across all sectors of Solomon Islands, thanks to the focus on strengthening institutions such as the courts and streamlining processes like that for registering a business.
But the difficult areas, areas where RAMSI could or would not go, like addressing the causes of the ethnic crisis, corruption, bringing about political stability, these are the things Solomon Islands did not address while the mission was there.
And they remain the things Solomon Islands must still address, without RAMSI, if it is to move forward.