14 Jun 2024

From farm to fabric to fashion

From Country Life, 7:30 pm on 14 June 2024
Atér woolen coats

Fashionista and farmer, Georgina Lawson Photo: Cosmo Kentish-Barnes

A sustainable fashion label was born and now grows on Georgina and Willy Lawson's sheep farm in Otago. 

The wool from the their Romdale hoggets is crafted into Atér designer coats and blazers

"Atér is my grandmother's name backwards" says Georgina, the label's founder, designer and mother to three young boys. 

Georgina's grandmother, Rita, was a professional dressmaker who specialised in wedding dresses.  

"I spent lots of time in her sewing room as a child, fiddling around with her. She tried to teach me a thing or two. She was pretty clever. Very clever, actually." 

Atér woolen coats

Georgina looks west from a hilltop, wearing one of her woolen coats. Photo: Supplied

Atér woolen coats

Modelling another coat at the sheep pens. Photo: Cosmo Kentish-Barnes

It was Georgina's inspirational grandmother and also the low value of strong wool, that gave her an entrepreneurial lightbulb moment.

"I was grumbling at my husband about declining wool prices and he said, well, why don't you try and do something with it? And that's how I started finding out what I could do with this great fibre that we grow here on the farm." 

Atér woolen coats

Willy Lawson checks on sheep on the 1400 hectare property. Photo: Cosmo Kentish-Barnes

Atér woolen coats

A mob of Romdale sheep navigate a steep hill. Photo: Cosmo Kentish-Barnes

Woollen coats were a natural fit for the budding designer. 

"When we were living in London I got a bit of an obsession with coats so I thought, I'm going to start making my own."

A lack of strong wool innovation has been a major frustration for New Zealand growers. Lawson is bucking this trend. 

She said her coats require a medium to high micron fibre, for strength and for the weaving of the fabric. 

"Strong wool has been used in carpets forever, and I thought, why can't we use that in the fashion industry and make a great piece that is going to last forever?" 

Atér woolen coats

The coats are made from hogget wool grown on the farm. Photo: Cosmo Kentish-Barnes

One of the biggest challenges she had to overcome was turning the raw fibre into a designer coat within the country. 

After much research, she mapped out a manageable production process for the wool.

It's scoured in Timaru, carded and spun in Wellington, then it goes to Auckland to be woven into fabric, before cutters cut the pattern and it's sewn into the end garment. 

"It didn't make sense to have this great product here and then send it overseas, and then bring it back and sell it as New Zealand wool."

Atér woolen coats

Georgina works on a design. Photo: Supplied

Georgina pulls a wheat-coloured coat off a long rack in her farm-based studio.

"We go for a slightly oversized look, so it's a relaxed fit. We've got patch pockets, so nice and handy for phones and keys. It's a good length and very simple and classic."

Atér woolen coats

A pair of old shearing slippers are used as inspiration. Photo: Supplied

She has several other designs on the rack and is planning to release a new style next year, which she's already working on.

"I still can't believe that people say that I'm a fashion designer. It was sort of a childhood dream that I never thought would actually come true," she says with a big smile.

Atér woolen coats

Looking back to the coast from the family farm. Photo: Cosmo Kentish-Barnes

Atér woolen coats

The view 180 degrees around from where the above photo was taken. Photo: Cosmo Kentish-Barnes