By Coen Lammers* in Doha
The Qatar FIFA World Cup has been bigger but not necessarily better than previous editions. Photo: AFP
The Qatar World Cup may have been "The Best" according to many measurable metrics, but it struggled to deliver the immeasurable aspects of football, writes Coen Lammers.
The international press corps at the FIFA World Cup hardly raised an eyebrow when the traditional pre-final media release landed in their inbox to announce that the Qatar tournament had been the "best ever".
FIFA presidents have made the same statement for as long as anyone in the enormous Main Media Centre could remember, so it would have been a bigger story if current FIFA boss Gianni Infantino had said anything differently. And it would have made his presence in the VVIP box (yes, that is not a typo) at the final a bit awkward.
President Infantino has been a staunch advocate for his Qatari hosts, culminating in the already legendary "I am an Arab" speech before the opening game, but it is tricky to compare this edition, as it is different from any other previous World Cup in history and is unlikely to ever be repeated.
The tournament was one of many firsts. The first World Cup in an Arab country, the first in the European winter, the first all based in one city and the first where fans could attend more than one game at the time.
Most importantly, this has been the first World Cup where money was no object and budgets were limitless. The opulence, lavishness and investment has simply been off the charts and hard to get your head around.
The fans have enjoyed the eight state-of-the-art venues, but some venues may never see a football game again and languish in the desert when the FIFA circus departs.
Many stadiums constructed for the Qatar FIFA World Cup may never host an international football match again. File photo. Photo: AFP
The stadiums are just the tip of the iceberg of cash, with the endless, often empty new eight-lane motorways, a new metro system, stunning new hotels, other infrastructure and all the best of the best of the best.
The number of staff supporting the event, on the street, in the stadiums and in the hotels was also a reflection of this abundance. Why get one person to do a job if you can hire 10 to help him? Even with the minimum monthly wage of 1000 rial (NZ$431) Qatar introduced recently, the labour costs were never going to be an issue.
The over-staffing did create some bizarre situations, like the dozen support workers stationed along an empty tunnel in downtown Doha, with not a person in sight, and nobody expected on a non-match day.
"What we are doing here? Just waiting, someone might need some help," one worker from Bangladesh said, shrugging his shoulders with a big grin.
The thousands of migrants workers from Africa and the sub-continent have been the beating heart of this World Cup, scanning your bags, serving your drink, driving the Uber or just standing on the road, waving a big foam finger to direct you to the metro or a stadium.
They have demonstrated warmth and enthusiasm that far outstripped their meagre earnings.
A worker carries construction materials in Doha on 16 November, 2022, ahead of the Qatar 2022 FIFA World Cup football tournament. File photo. Photo: AFP
The World Cup has put a spotlight on some questionable working conditions and miserable wages in Qatar, but dozens of migrant workers spoken to this month, pointed out that they earn many times what they earn back home, and just as importantly, they are often relieved to be away from any violent, corrupt or otherwise hopeless environments in their own countries.
Qatar recruited thousands of workers to create this football bubble and you have to wonder what the future holds for many of them once the teams and fans have all returned home.
You get what you pay for, and judging by the unrivalled investment in infrastructure, people and organisation for this World Cup, it is hard to argue with Infantino's flattering assessment of the 2022 edition.
Fans who could afford their trip have genuinely enjoyed their time in Doha, like the two elderly Brazilian ladies gushing over the Qatar transport systems and how safe the felt walking around late at night.
"We would never take the metro back home at 2am, but here we felt totally safe."
Because Qatar has been so unique, it is impossible assess whether it was better than any previous Mondial.
The tournaments in Russia in 2018 and Brazil in 2014 are remembered for the host populations injecting excitement into the event and making visitors feel welcome, but in Doha most supporters will not have spoken to an actual Qatari, most of whom seemed to stay behind the walls of their palaces and only come out late at night to enjoy a coffee in the many cafes.
Unlike previous host countries, the locals did not seem overly interested in football or meeting their overseas guests, illustrated by the empty seats and Qatari departing early from the stadiums.
The venues were overwhelmingly populated by guest workers from India, Nepal, Bangladesh or Pakistan, who also seemed more interested in talking about Kane Williamson than Oliver Giroud. Unless they could spot social media icons like Lionel Messi and Cristiano Ronaldo on the field. But the moment Ronaldo was substituted, these so-called football supporters would pack up their phones and walk out.
Morocco's fans and the nation's fairy tale run to the semifinals proved to be one of the highlights of the tournament. Photo: FIFA / Michael Regan / Getty Images
The FIFA World Cup in Qatar may have been "The Best" according to many measurable metrics, but it struggled to deliver the immeasurable aspects of football, the things you just can't buy.
Like the love of the beautiful game that unites football fans around the world through their shared passion and common language.
One New Zealander living in Doha described the tournament and all its glamorous trimmings as a theme park to keep the locals entertained. "Just like the Romans did in the olden days," the Kiwi expat assessed. "And now this circus has left town, they will just get a new toy, the Grand Prix, another football tournament or the Olympics."
The Qatar World Cup has arguably been the slickest, best funded sporting event in history with the most incredible venues and surroundings, but at times it was lacking the unbridled emotion generated by large contingents of travelling fans that have made the pinnacle event so special.
We can thank the Moroccan team and their fans, along with the human wave of Argentinian, for reminding us what the World Cup is truly about.
The Morocco fairy tale run to the semi-final and the dream final between two of the greatest players our era, Messi and Kylian Mbappe have ensured that this tournament will also be remembered for the actual football and not just the theme park it was played in.
* Coen Lammers is attending the FIFA World Cup in Qatar for RNZ. Qatar will be the sixth Fifa World Cup he has covered.
